After breakfast we decided to go with Brian into the center of town to look around the large market and grab some lunch. While a nice idea, we underestimated how hot it was walking in the 90 degree weather directly under the strong sun. The trees in Angkor provided much more shade than we had previously realized. Our goal was to find the French restaurant Brian had read about that served crepes. After wandering around the Pub Street area for a bit we eventually found it. The menu had a lot to offer, especially in the crepe section, but everything was much more expensive than we had been used to for the past week. Crepes were $5, which is a lot even in the US! But since we were there, we went ahead and each got one. And they were tasty.
By that time it was already past noon and we decided it was time to head back to Rosy's for some delicious iced coffees. We also had to get back in time to be picked up. The night before we had booked a little excursion for ourselves, something different than the temples. We were going to be taken out on a boat to Tonle Lake, the largest lake in southeast Asia. The whole package was about $30 each and included transportation plus dinner. Our guesthouse had recommended it as a nice way to see the lake and the floating village, hassle free. Yes that's right, there is a floating village.
Pretty soon after our ice coffees a large air conditioned van arrived. We were the first three pick-ups. There was a driver and a guide. The driver didn't speak any English, but the guide did. Again we were so impressed with his speaking skills! He told us he'd only been studying English for three months, paying an hourly fee to take classes at the local university. He told us it cost more to have English taught by a native speaker and that he paid the cheaper fee for the Cambodian teacher (who obviously does a great job!). He also pays for the hourly class instead of the ones with a set time because they are more expensive, plus, if he has to work, he can reschedule where if he is taking the set time class, just like any college class, if you miss it you can't make it up. He said he was studying Tourism Business so this seemed the perfect job for him. He was a very nice guy to talk to and we liked hearing his story.
Before heading out to the lake we stopped to pick up five more passengers. What a motley crew we were. First we stopped at a lush, exclusive hotel to pick up two Australian guys, one plump and brown, one plumb and white, with fancy cameras around their necks, sun hats and khaki shorts. Second stop was at another exclusive hotel. This time it was an Eastern European couple, a very large man and his very tan, very blonde, very busty wife. Last was a small guesthouse like ours where we picked up a tiny, 40 something Japanese woman. (Everyone also spoke perfect English.) What a group.
Then it was off towards the lake. Our guide made sure to point out lots of things to us on the way as we wound through Siem Reap, realizing the city was much bigger than we had thought. We passed both shack houses and solid homes, markets and families. He would say, "see those men, those are the fish men, they catch fish and sell it to market every day." Or, "see this, this is a crocodile farm. It takes seven years to raise a crocodile, then you can sell it to China for purses and bags and make a few hundred dollars." Apparently crocodile farms were very common in Cambodia!
As we got out of town the land became sparser, with only a few buildings lining the street. We also saw an accident. A person on a bike had been hit or run off the road and ended up in the side bushes, people were gathering around to help but we don't really know what happened. The road we were on was raised, on either side it was a good 10 feet or more to the ground below. Still the guide told us that during the rainy season, this road is covered with water! Thus getting to the lake becomes almost impossible, even for the fish men. That is why many families have portable homes, or two homes. They live next to the lake during dry season, and then during rainy season move inland. That is also why the homes are built on stilts, because the water level fluctuates so much! On our way we stopped at something called GECKO, an education center built on stilts, right between two homes. The front GECKO touched the raised street, the back of the house looked down 20 feet to the small stream below. There were stilt houses all around us, we could look right into people’s backyards and see them washing in the pump water, peer at their chickens pecking away at the sparse grass and notice kids playing. These people would move once the rainy season came in. Our guide also explained that they had recently had a fresh water pump installed in the area, which made living conditions much better because the lake water they had been drinking and using to cook with was not clean. At GEGKO we got to see pictures and charts discussing the dramatic and drastic changes in water level the lake undergoes every year, as well as learn more about the fish, snakes and crocodiles raised in the area. Actually, the crocodiles are fed the water snakes! Eww!
Finally we arrived at the lake, or at least to the peninsula that boats followed into the lake. The area wasn't exactly picturesque since it was the dry season and there were a hundred or so shacks built around its edge. There were also hundreds of small boats in the water. And then we noticed a large, ugly construction site to the right. We asked what it was. Our guide said, "oh that is a Korean resort being built, they are the ones who supplied the road we just drove on." Our jaws dropped! I was so upset! I couldn't stop thinking "stupid Koreans!" We had actually seen a ton of Korean's in Cambodia, I could hear and recognize them right away. They were the ones who were always on tour buses. They would look at the temple and get right back on. They never interacted with the locals. I know what most Korean's opinion of Cambodia is already, dirty and dark, bad people. I was so outraged that they were able to come to Cambodia, buy up some prime land next to the lake and build a huge resort. I just know the majority will never leave its grounds unless they are riding comfortably on a bus. It’s just too bad. I hope they do something more for the local economy than a dinky one lane road.
Luckily it was quickly time for us to board our small boat to head to the lake. The boat was long seating about 50 but it carried only our group. All the boats were brightly colored and hummed with the noise from the motor. Going up the peninsula was fun, we got to see homes on the banks, pass other boats and saw the beginnings of the floating village. A new school house was being built! And when I say floating, I mean they really do float! A whole community lives out on the lake and their homes, shops, schools, even the police buildings, are built on floating platforms. Amazing! The people of the floating village are also not actually Cambodian, they are Vietnamese. Somewhere along the line when the Vietnam War was going on they came to Cambodia and Cambodia has allowed them to remain ever since. They all live together and speak Vietnamese and the Cambodia's can automatically tell them apart.
As we were cruising along suddenly a much smaller and faster boat zipped up next to us. It was driven by a young boy and next to him sat an even younger girl. Suddenly he cut the motor and they fell away, behind us. Then suddenly they were back again, this time right next to our boat, keeping speed with us. They opened up a cooler and the girl hopped on board! They were just like pirates, only pirates that were selling instead of taking! She was selling sodas and beer, just like that! The European man bought a beer. She jumped back in the speedy boat and away they went. It was so cool.
Our next attraction was just as bizarre. Another speeding boat came up to us, this time a father was driving it and a really young boy was perched in the front. And what was he holding? A SNAKE!! We had been warned we would see this and that it is a little disturbing but... there it was, a five year old boy holding a snake around his neck, smiling and holding up the peace sign. It was cute but odd and we didn't want to take pictures, although some people did. And then the boy was on our boat, luckily without the snake, asking for $1 for his picture. Our guide had already told us you didn't have to pay. Maybe they should ask for the money first? Brian had snapped a picture and the boy knew it. He perched right next to him saying "Mr, Mr..." his hand out, just begging. Brian uncomfortably looked away and eventually the boy got back in his own boat. What a sight! (And hey, maybe the snakes are harmless and they know how to handle them, I shouldn't judge!)
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| Homes on stilts at GECKO |
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| Boat dock |
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| Pushing off, our guide |
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| Our boat looked just like this |
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| Brian with his previously snake holding boy, begging for a dollar |
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| Like little pirates! |
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| Floating village home, there were many more |
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| In their buckets, sorry you can't see the snakes. I felt bad taking pictures. |
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| Our odd group, plus crocodiles! |
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| Me and croc skins! |
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| Brian, Jason and me |
The European couple sat together and everyone else occupied the larger table. We learned from the two Australian men that they were on a company retreat for two weeks and that their company always chooses exotic locations for business. They worked with major airlines and baggage claim systems, I got the impression they were very well off. We also learned their hotel was something like over $150 a night, while ours was $20. The Japanese woman was so cute, so typical in her quiet and almost shy manners. She was definitely not shy though, or timid, because she was traveling alone for a week. She explained it was extremely rare for people to take time off of work in Japan, even though they technically can (sounds like Korea!) so she felt guilty but just had to do it. She said "my coworkers will be mad at me, so I must buy them gifts."
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| The life |
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| Sunset on Tonle Lake, floating structure |
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| Dinner! |
Our dinner was great, curry, rice, chicken, soda, beer, water. Our guide also became our server. Everyone was enjoying the evening so much that he had to finally usher us off the boat at 7pm when it was time to go back to town. By then it was pitch black, I think the moon was hidden by clouds. Our boat had a little light and a large spot light. We went slowly down the peninsula, our driver knowingly guiding us, turning on the spotlight only every now and then so as not to blind other passing boats. Every time he did so we could see the thick coating of bugs in the air. Who knew what lay in the dark waters to our sides. We began to think, if we hit ground right now and were stuck or started to sink, this would be the funniest group of people to ever have to help each other escape! Two slightly cocky Australian guys, an overly sexual odd couple and a soft spoken Japanese woman, plus two Cambodian natives and us! Good thing nothing happened!
When we left the boat we had to walk up a steep boat dock. At the top of it were lights shining next to our van. They were thick with bugs. As we walked we realized by the water was not where we wanted to be. There were bugs coating the air! I began to run up the dock and everyone else followed, we were waving our hands around like crazy people, pinching shut our mouths and hoping nothing went up our noses!
Back to town it was and off to Rosy's. We were back by 8pm. We had been told that that night was the annual Puppet Parade for the children of Siem Reap. A non-profit organization works with the local kids to make huge paper mache puppets, so big that it takes 10 kids to operate one by standing inside and working the arms and such. We had wanted to see the parade but were afraid we missed it because of the boat trip. Luckily though it ended right in front of Rosy's in the large gardens. All the puppets were set around a large stage were all the children and their families could come to enjoy a slideshow and performances! It was such a great thing to witness and I was so happy these kids who have so little could enjoy such a fun night. The puppets were also amazing! There were about 10 of them, some were dragons, swans, cars, monsters, and they were all lit up with lights, painted and decorated. It was very cool. The night air was beautiful and the colorful puppets lit up the river front.
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| Me and one of the many puppets |
Before the day ended we decided we had to go to the Night Market. We had driven by it on our way to the lake so we now knew the way. Down a busy street we went. As we walked we passed numerous massage parlors and were given many fliers. These legitimate massage parlors offered neck massages for as low as $5!
I was intrigued by the signs for "Dr. Fishy" -- a service that would make you "happy and funny!" We'd been hearing about these places for days and I finally had to try it. Outside each massage parlor was a large tank with little silver fish in them. For only $2 you could stick your feet in the tank for half an hour and the fish would eat the dead skin cells off!! $2 also included a beer or soda. How could I pass it up? So I boldly told the boys we needed to stop, handed over my $2 and slowly lowered my feet into the water. And guess what, it did make me happy and funny!! The fish nibbling on my feet tickled sooooo much!!!! It was impossible not to laugh and squirm about while hundreds of hungry fish fed away!! Brian had so much fun watching me that he decided to try as well. Jason declined due to his too ticklish feet. I think maybe he was just grossed out. Brian and I sat there for a good while, almost half an hour, before we decided our feet were clean enough and it was time to move on. I must confess I loved Dr. Fishy! It was so much fun and really worked, my feet were nice and smooth! I think this kind of thing is becoming popular in the US too, but I'm sure it costs a ton of money.
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| Dr. Fishy! Hard to pose for so long for this one! |
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| Gross but cool |
Finally we made it to the Night Market! And what a market it was! It was the first night market to be opened in Siem Reap since the awful Khmer Republic and was a controlled market. Vendors had to apply to be included and thus the whole area was more trendy and clean than most markets. The entryway was grand, with white colored lights covering the large sign for its entrance. More lights were stew across the streets leading to the entrance. The stalls were decorated like beach huts with straw roofs and the floor was covered in small white gravel. The market also included two swanky looking bars and a one room movie theater. I was immediately in love with the Night Market. We shopped around a bit, coming away with some tshirts.
We decided to end the night there since while the day had started out lazy, it had been long. Plus the next day it was back to the temples!
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